Designer Profile: Kirsten Muenster, Jeweler, designer, metalworker and stone cutter, San Francisco, CA

Sonic Eclectic: What is your occupation and what does that entail?
Kirsten Muenster: As a jeweler, designer, metalworker and stone cutter, I incorporate ethically sourced, sustainable, recycled and vintage objects into my work. For me, ethical sourcing involves a transparent supply chain (not unlike the slow food movement – where there is a visible link from seed to table). The stones that I work with must have a clear and trackable mine to market custody chain. In order to achieve this, I work with stones from small, family owned mines, as well as individual rockhounds that hand collect, cut and polish the materials themselves. I also do a lot of my own stone cutting from rock found in the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s.

It is possible to have a beautifully designed piece of jewelry made with interesting materials whose cultivation does not fund corrupt organizations or promote unfair labor practices. I do not use conflict or questionable gemstones in my work.

I use 100% recycled precious metals. In the studio, I recycle all of my scrap metal and have a very active “recycling program” which encourages clients to send me their broken, unworn or unloved jewelry so I can refine it. I offer a fair trade-in value and clients receive credit towards the purchase of new jewelry. I educate myself about the materials I work with to understand where they come from and whose lives they may impact. I’m always exploring more conscious and sustainable options for my jewelry materials.

SE: Take us through a day in the life of Kirsten Muenster.
KS: I have a large cup of tea with honey and cream while checking email and all my favorite sites which include eccoeco.blogspot.com, ecouterre.com, treehugger.com and goodlifer.com. I arrive to my studio by 10AM and usually work on jewelry till 6PM. I take breaks periodically to stretch, eat and enjoy sunny moments on the deck with all my gorgeous succulents. I also stop to play with my stones and other materials that are spread over a big table – arranging, pairing, grouping, rearranging. This “play time” inspires my designs and leads me to my next series of pieces.

SE: When did you know you wanted to work for the fashion industry?
KS: My mother was an antique dealer and I started collecting vintage clothing, bags and jewelry at a very early age. I was intrigued by the history of these pieces as well as the tools, skills and techniques that helped make them. The quality and fine craftsmanship evident in some of these old pieces really inspired me to learn how to make them myself. I started making jewelry in the garage when I was 13.

SE: What was your favorite fashion gig?
KS: Over the years I’ve participated in a few Global Green charity events and eco-fashion shows. One year my fossilized dinosaur bone necklaces was paired with a slate gray Linda Loudermilk suit – a stunning combination. I love seeing my jewelry compliment and highlight other eco designer’s work.

SE: What inspires you and what is on your inspiration board?

KS: My materials at hand and my moods inspire and direct my work pretty consistently. I look to the world around me, to nature and my feelings about beauty and the wabi-sabi aesthetic. For me that means appreciating the beauty in imperfection and eliminating the non-essential. It is unpretentious, simple, rustic, subtle and treads lightly on the planet. This has been a guiding principle in my work and my life and inspires everything from my business practices, to my designs and material choices at the jewelers bench.

I’m also inspired by all the people in the fashion industry who lead by example and instill their values in their work. They teach me a lot.

My inspiration board and table are filled with stones, found organic materials, vintage buttons, buckles and chains and pictures of my ancestors who were metalworkers and artists.

SE: Who are your favorite designers and what are your favorite stores?
KS: My favorite designers are Noir, Iben Høj, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Ekovaruhuset and Stella McCartney. My current favorite stores carry plants! Flora Grubb Gardens in San Francisco pretty much haunts my dreams.

SE: What is your favorite item in your closet and why?
KS: My 50′s black, three quarter sleeve coat by Bellciano Couture. I found it at a little church thrift store that was having a “fill a bag for a dollar” sale. I was in high school at the time and even though it wasn’t my style then, I knew it was a keeper. I carried that coat around with me for about 12 years before I finally started wearing it. I seemed to evolve into it and it’s been my signature coat ever since.

SE: What does fashion mean to you and how would you describe your style?
KS: Fashion is incredibly powerful, it allows you to express who you are (or who you’d like to be), your values and desires. I’m proud to be a part of the slow-fashion movement that is based in sustainability, fine craftsmanship, ethical values and preserving the handmade process. My style is minimal and timeless. I love clean, sexy design and look for well crafted, quality pieces with longevity.

Visit kirstenmuensterjewelry.com


—Lorelei Marfil

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